This intriguing white has matured to an amazing copper-golden colour. It deserves time and attention, because it gives of its huge depth and complexity only slowly. As it sits in the glass, notes of honey, toasted pecan and maple syrup emerge, nuanced by hints of pine sap, black tea and polished wood. In the mouth, it is reminiscent of aged Jurançon Sec, with intensity, grip and a tannic tug, which gradually softens as the richness, intensity and complexity come to the fore. This is made from a field blend of Encruzado, Uva-Cão, Bical and Terrantez, white grapes which were vinified with skin-contact for around a month, a little like a red wine. This is a traditional winemaking method, which has seen a renaissance in recent years.
O Fugitivo Branco Em Curtimenta
Casa da Passarella
Single
£44.00
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Winemaking
A traditional technique used at Casa da Passarella, fermenting white grapes on solids. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation from indigenous yeasts, with stems and direct contact with skins for 1 month.
Press Review
The 2018 Branco O Fugitivo em Curtimenta is an unoaked and very dry field blend (grapes like Encruzado, Uva-Cão, Bical, Terrantez, and so on) from old vines. It was aged for 12 months in used French oak and comes in at 12.6% alcohol. The important thing about this wine, however, is that "Curtimenta" designation, which references skin contact. This had contact with stems and skins for one month. As a skin-contact orange wine, it is surprisingly graceful. It has plenty of power and grip on the finish—they all do—plus a bright demeanor and succulent finish, but it is also rather elegant. This is something that you can actually drink, with the proper food pairing. It isn't just for show. It may age rather well too. Let's start here and take that in stages. Tip: This isn't a white you want to drink all that cold. It will do better closer to 60 degrees Fahrenheit than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Score: 93/100
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Product Specification
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ColourWhite
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CountryPortugal
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RegionDão
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Sub RegionSerra da Estrela
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StyleDry
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ClosureNatural Cork
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SKUJ3456118
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Alcohol %12.5%
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GrapeOther
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Unit Volume75cl
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VeganYes
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VegetarianYes