The Sutherland Paradox

Cool Climate?

The Webb family, of Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Stellenbosch, also owns the Sutherland estate, in Elgin Valley, six miles from the Atlantic.  Proximity to the ocean and the icy Benguela Current make Elgin South Africa's coolest wine region, and Sutherland accordingly produces fine Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.  It seems strange, therefore, that the heat-loving varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Petit Verdot (as well as Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne), are also grown successfully here, giving rise to wines which are by no means lacking in ripeness.

A chat with Thomas

Puzzled by this paradox, I spoke with Thomas Webb to understand the region better, and Sutherland in particular.  Thomas explained that Elgin is bowl-shaped: surrounded on all sides by high ground at 500m-1,300m elevation, with undulating terrain averaging 200m in between.  Sutherland is located towards the middle of this bowl, and even within the estate, site climate varies dramatically between adjacent plots of land.  There are chilly slopes with a southerly aspect, suited to cool-climate varieties, right next to much more sheltered, north-facing locations.  For this reason, elegant Pinot Noir can come from a vineyard very close to one producing ripe, structured Cabernet Sauvignon.

The warm heart of the Elgin Valley

While in the much warmer Stellenbosch, Thelema's vineyards are located on the southern slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains, at more than 500m elevation - making them among the region's highest and coolest.  Thomas says, "Thelema is a cool site in a warm region; Sutherland is a warm site in a cool region."  The Webb family's likeability, and their superb wines at affordable prices really do make Sutherland the warm heart of Elgin Valley.

Thomas Webb

Photos courtesy of the Webb family