Judgement of Paris...Judgement of Bath?
Laura on 10 Oct 2016
On 24th May 1976, a young English wine merchant, working in Paris, decided to pit the might of the loftiest chateaux in Bordeaux, and the revered aristocracy of some top white Burgundies against a group of young pretenders from California.
His name was Steven Spurrier. The tasting became known as ‘The Judgement of Paris’. It was the wine tasting that rocked and shocked the wine world.
The winners of both the white and the red blind tastings were from California; nine of the eleven judges were French. The results caused outrage in France, and the event was barely covered by the Parisian press. It was only several months later, when the New York Times picked up on the enormity of the story, that the true potential of California, and indeed other emerging New World countries, began to be recognised.
This momentous event was a catalyst in the wine industry’s realisation that California could compete on the world stage, and had a revolutionary impact on developing the prestige of New World wines. It also gave the French producers a wake up call. With the winning red, Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, having produced its first vintage as recently as 1972, and pitched against established Bordeaux chateaux, with heritage and a long history, this tasting pushed the door ajar for New World producers, at the highest level.
Forty years on, and many celebrations later, Bath held its very own tribute to this momentous event, with a re-enactment dinner, hosted by Great Western Wine’s Fine Wine Manager Tom King, at one of the city’s award-winning restaurants The Allium. Following a glass of the creamy, beautifully-crafted Giulio Ferrari 2014, Blanc de Blancs, a top-notch Italian fizz, which would put most Champagnes to the test, the sell-out room of guests were put to the test themselves with a blind tasting of three white wines.
The whites were Chateau Montelena 2012, whose 1973 vintage rocketed the wine world when it beat the top white Burgundies in the competition, and can now be bought for £43.50; Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Les Pucelles’ 2012, Olivier Leflaive, currently retailing at £210.00, and a rogue addition ,to set the cat amongst the pigeons, Mornington Peninsula’s Kooyong Faultline Chardonnay 2013, at a relatively lowly £33.50. Tom was kind on the assembled guests, and rather then ask them to identify each one, simply asked for their order of preference. The result was remarkable and proves the benefit of blind tasting without influence or prejudice.
As judged by the guests, top of the list was the subtle, elegant, lemon and baked apple-streaked Kooyong Chardonnay, with its refined, restrained poise, followed by the structured, peach, toasted hazelnut, brioche and classic oak structure of the Puligny-Montrachet. Chateau Montelena, with its ripe melon, jasmine and creamy richness came third – is this to do with changing styles and tastes? Maybe.
A glass of ‘Dreams’ 2014 followed, a buttery Chardonnay from iconic northern Italian producer Vinnaioli Jermann, slick in its rich, spicy boldness, with hints of honey and waxy lemons, paired with Executive Chef Chris Staines’ starter of Canneloni of crab and scallops, a delicate parcel of sweet, creamy seafood, infused with the subtle flavours that Chris does best – galangal, lemongrass and ginger – and accompanied by a crunchy little salad of celeriac, sweet mango and coriander.
Back to the taste challenge, and onto reds. Guests were once again asked to pick their favourites of 3 award-winning wines; the 2013 version of the 1976 winner Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon (£98); Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2012 (£400); and the wild card Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (£75). What a treat. Although still in their infancy, the wines were clear in their pedigree; in another reversal of the 1976 tasting, the 2012 Mouton Rothschild emerged the clear favourite with the guests, demonstrating, even in youth, the purity, sophistication and depth of its rich, intense, character. With a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, a touch of Cabernet Franc and 8% of Merlot, it is a wine of poise and purity, crammed with dense dark berry and cedary fruit, and a sleeping giant in its potential. Although not comparable for Bordeaux overall with the 2009 and 2010 vintages, Mouton 2012 outshone many of its competitors that year, and was already demonstrating a remarkable finesse and poise.
Guests’ second choice went to Cyril Henschke 2010, with its pure, defined aromas and flavours of sweet blackcurrants, mint, and dark chocolate, and a beautiful silky richness, whilst the rich, bold, concentrated character of the more flamboyant SLV Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Stags Leap came in third. All top wines, but an interesting result from a wine-aware audience.
A Bordeaux blend continued the theme for the dinner, with the mature, beautifully crafted Morgenster Estate Red 2003 from South Africa on the menu to accompany an exquisitely rare, meltingly-tender fillet of beef, with light-as-air creamed potato and a rich spinach puree. Morgenster, situated in South Africa’s best-known wine region, Stellenbosh practise a strategy of ageing their wines for a number of years before releasing – expensive, but worth it. The 2003 is at its peak, deep and rich, with bold berry fruit, hints of cedarwood and mature tannins. It’s time to drink it up but it certainly proves that South Africa is making wines that age with style.
Following this profusion of stellar vinous and culinary riches, Chris Staines and Great Western Wines delivered one final stunning match; an individual pear Tarte Tatin, the pear perfectly soft, contrasting with light, crispy pastry, and an intense, decadent toffee and honey caramel, infused with star anise. The wine match for this last moment of indulgence, was the equally decadent Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2003, from Patricius, which is made only in exceptional years, and from first growth vineyards, in this renowned Hungarian wine region. This nectar of the gods possesses an indulgent, alluring enchantment, with its rich, apricot, marmalade and acacia honeyed intensity, softened by a delectable citrus freshness. The success of this final treat for the taste buds was acknowledged by smiles and sighs of contentment from the assembled audience.
The man behind the now world-recognised Judgement of Paris could not be in attendance, but sent his own message “You have a marvellous line up of wines and it is wonderful to see Paris 1976 celebrated in this way.” Steven Spurrier commented.
It was a wonderful and fitting tribute, and what better excuse for a re-enactement for the 41st anniversary next year?! I’m sure it won’t take a great deal to convince Tom and the Great Western Wine team.
By Angela Mount