In conversation with Tomas Roquette at Quinta do Crasto
Edward Mercer on 31 Jul 2024
Quinta do Crasto is a family-owner producer based in the Douro valley, while also making wines in the Douro Superior (upper Douro) region. They have become very well known around the world for the quality of their wines, and especially the Douro Doc wines, in particular two single vineyard wines; Vinha da Ponte and Vinha Maria Teresa.
The Douro Valley is home to Quinta do Crasto. For anybody unfamiliar with the Douro what are the best things about making wine and living there?
It has been a real privilege, for all generations of my family, to be present in the Douro for the last 100 years. All of its morphology and authenticity make it a unique region in the world. The strong surroundings of the landscape of the largest mountainous wine growing region, the presence of old vineyards with all their history, a river that runs along the region and gives it its name, the diversity of native grape varieties, in short, everything leads for us to be honoured and passionate to be present and produce wines from here.
Crasto works with single grape varieties and field blends. Are there added challenges with a field blend?
Yes, there are numerous challenges in a vineyard with more than 1 grape variety, and in most cases of our old vineyards with field blends, we are talking about more than 20 or even 50 grape varieties, as is the case with Vinha Maria Teresa. Being faced with different varieties, on the same plot, we must be even more attentive to the moments of maturation, since they are different in time. Ultimately, we may be harvesting on different days or even weeks, parts of the same vineyard. Additionally, we have a greater challenge in terms of labour, due to the constant attention that needs to be given to this type of vineyard in terms of viticulture.
You’re perhaps more famous for still wines than fortified, how did this come about?
Although, and let's be clear, Port Wine is as special to us as Douro Doc, we produce and sell much more of this last category. Firstly, this comes from the fact that we only produce Port Wines of special and premium categories, leaving aside the base range of Ruby, Tawny and White, so the volume is already smaller. On the other hand, the desire we had to make the native non-fortified grape varieties known was great and we tried from an early age to work so that they were known beyond just Port Wine. When we started, in 1994, the success was such that from then on it was justified that this was the path.
We love the Crasto Old Vines Reserva but what is your perfect food pairing for this stunning wine?
Reserva Vinhas Velhas is an extraordinary wine, which perfectly defines the potential of old vines and field blends in the Douro. Despite being a structured and complete wine, it is still delicate and elegant. Perhaps I would suggest game dishes, such as partridge, pheasant, or venison, as an ideal pairing.
What is the next big project you’re working on and why?
We have been witnessing a large increase in the number of visitors to the Douro and that is why we are developing a project that allows us to face this brutal increase without losing what distinguishes us, which is welcoming with time, dedication and professionalism. Therefore, I would say that Wine Tourism will soon have its new project underway.
The infinity pool at Crasto – who’s idea was it to build? How many people can fit in it?
The idea came from my parents, Leonor and Jorge Roquette. From that to asking their friend Eduardo Souto de Moura (Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2011) to create a swimming pool at Quinta do Crasto, it was a step. We wanted the pool to have a fantastic setting in that place, but clearly the result was surpassed and today it is one of the landmarks of our farm. As for how many you can fit... perhaps it depends on the wine you drank ?.
Can you tell us something about Crasto that very few people know?
Did you know that where the pool is now, it was part of the top of the hill? We needed rock and shale to rebuild the wine cellar and the lining of the barrel cellar, and we removed it from that slope, leaving that empty platform... where a swimming pool would fit perfectly.