Susy Atkins Talks Christmas

Last week, Susy Atkins; BBC1 Saturday Kitchen wine presenter, wine editor of the Sunday Telegraph Stella Magazine and also Delicious magazine, came to Bath to host an informal, intimate tasting of a selection of her choices from the Great Western wine list for Christmas.

Susy has always had a relaxed, down to earth approach to explaining the mysteries of the vinous world, and engaging perfectly with the many audiences she addresses.  She talks about wine in a no-nonsense way, without any of the pomposity that many in our walk of life are often accused of having! She makes her events fun, informative, and gives guests confidence to try new things.

This evening was no exception; Susy had selected a wide range of wines, covering pretty much all styles and price brackets, and welcomed her guests to the wondrous treasure trove of the Great Western Wine shop with a glass of Ruggeri Prosecco Brut Quartese DOCG NV (£14.95).  This is A list Prosecco, far more intense and complex than most. Why? Spot the letters DOCG – this means that its from the very best vineyards in the region, situated high up on the hills, and made by a family producer who is renowned as one of the very best of all Prosecco producers.  The impact of the Prosecco craze has led to the appearance of a sea of inferior, dull wines from less meticulous wineries, who just want to jump on the bandwagon of its success.  Full of bright, citrus, and ogen melon fruit, its fresh and creamy, with a lovely floral note.  Its at the top of the price range for Prosecco but well worth it, and better than far many cheap Champagnes around the same price. Perfect for Christmas Morning and for parties – impress your guests even further by serving in magnums (£30), which always creates great impact.

Next up was one of Susy’s favourites of the evening, and I share her view entirely.  Champagne Gobillard Brut Grande Reserve Premier Cru NV (down to £19.50 for December), is what is known as a ‘grower’ champagne. This means it’s made by the people who grow the grapes, in this case the Gobillard family, who has owned the vineyards for decades, and whose passion and craft is handed down from generation to generation.  Unlike many smaller producers, they don’t sell their grapes to the big Champagne houses and brands, they make it themselves – artisanal, family, special. The Champagne is part of their family. As Susy said '...it’s fresh, and excellent value for money, with complex, rich toasty, yeasty notes and a proper raspberry tang from a good dollop of pinot grapes.' Truly exceptional, and one of the very best Champagnes at under £20 this Christmas.

Moving on to whites, Susy chose 3 very different styles, each of which has a role in the Christmas festivities. First up was a perennial favourite Ailala Treixadura Ribeiros 2013 (£10.95).  A warm, smooth, textured white from the cool, wind-swept region of Galicia in north west Spain. Most people will know Albarinho, the favourite white grape from this region, and Treixadura is less well-known but equally as good. With hints of pink grapefruit, lemon peel, ripe peach, and wild herbs, its modern, smart and full of character, with a bone dry yet fleshy style, and a whiff of sea-salt to liven it up further.  Very versatile, it has enough personality to match to most Christmas fare, and would be particularly good with a Christmas Eve baked salmon, or Boxing Day cold cuts and salads.

Susy chose a classic party wine next, from the UK's favourite white grape variety – Vina Leyda Reserva Sauvignon blanc 2014 (£7.95). This is from the Leyda Valley, close up to the Chilean Pacific coast, which means the weather is fresher, and at times, extremely cold, a weather pattern that suits the temperamental Sauvignon.  Bright, breezy and crisp, Susy was spot on in her suggestion of this as a Christmas party wine (and it’s a bargain price too) – less overt and intense than some New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, it’s bright, zesty, with a squeeze of fresh lime, and a passionfruit edge – crisp, refreshing and a lovely,breezy antidote for all the rich Christmas food.

Moving right along the style spectrum, Susy’s final choice of white was the iconic Ken Forrester FMC Chenin Blanc 2013 (£23) – a worthy match to the richness and pomp of the Christmas feast.  From South Africa’s ‘King of Chenin’, Ken Forrester, this is rich, sublime and delicious, with layer upon layer of flavour and character, which will cope well with the myriad of flavours in the stuffings, trimmings, gravy, vegetables etc.  This is still a baby and has years to go, but it was showing beautifully, and Susy pointed out the freshness and zip in the wine. Packed with rich, indulgent, apricot, melon and candied orange fruit, with a hint of honey, it has incredible depth, balance and complexity.

Now, onto reds. First up, was a Christmas classic Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir 2013 (£19.95) – Pinot Noir is a classic match for the richness and sweetness of either turkey or goose, and this one certainly fits the bill. As Susy explained, the Pinot Noir grape, is temperamental and a bit of a diva. It’s happiest in cooler wine regions, as in its original home of Burgundy, in northern France. However, its quite at home in the windswept and often rainy territory of the Mornington Peninsula; far south, on the Australian coast, and battered by wind and rain in the winter. This is truly a hand-crafted wine – the viticulturalists and winemakers pick out the very best of the grapes, in each vineyard, to ensure the highest possible quality – painstaking work, but worth it, when you taste this silky, opulent delight.

‘Christmas red wines shouldn’t be too heavy’ said Susy ‘ but they need richness, softness, and a good aroma, and this one has it’.  Full of damson, and raspberry fruit, it’s stylish,  seductive, yet fresh and deeply enticing.

Susy’s next choice was one of my favourites Quinta do Crasto Douro Superior 2013 (currently reduced to £13.95).  She has visited this most beautiful of wine regions, not long ago, and waxed lyrical about it's majesty, beauty, and supreme calm and stillness.  I can vouch for that – the scenery is spectacular – soaring, steep terraces, with terraced vineyards perched at vertiginous angles – in one of the most quiet, tranquil places on earth. The Douro is most famous for Port; but over the last 15 years, it has quietly built up a phenomenal reputation for top quality red wines. This is a real jumble of grapes, called  a ‘field blend’, but focusing on the Touriga Nacional as the key element.  Its rich, spicy, and full of fig, raisin and chocolate-stashed flavours. Sumptuous, voluptuous and warming, Susy recommended this with richer meats than turkey, so if lamb or beef is on the agenda at any stage, this is the wine to choose– and it would  also be spot on with a slab of local cheddar!  She also gave an early Easter hint, that this would be great with Easter lamb.

The final wine of the evening was a thick, sticky, chestnut brown, mellifluous liquid called  La Luna PX (6.95 for 37.5cl). This is a glorious, dense, dark, treat, which  is the perfect partner to Christmas pud and mince pies. Yes, it’s a sweet sherry; and it’s absolutely fabulous.  Sherry is making a long-overdue revival, both in terms of the tangy, salty dry Finos, and the sweeter styles. This is simply glorious . You only need a small glass, but it’s the perfect small glass with a mince pice, whilst wrapping presents on Christmas Eve, or as an indulgent treat after the hectic Christmas cooking.  Thick, treacly, with the essence of raisins, and rich mocha and toffee notes, Susy was spot on with this choice.

A fun and relaxed evening, and lots of happy guests… Christmas wines sorted!

By Angela Mount