Ruggeri Prosecco - Interview with Isabella Bisol

Ian D'Agata, writing in the latest issue of Decanter Magazine, included two of our Proseccos in his top 20, both from the Ruggeri family:  declared to be "hands down, one of the top five Prosecco producers". To learn more about Ruggeri Isabella Bisol spoke to Angela Mount:

WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT THE RUGGERI RANGE OF PROSECCOS?

We are one of the first wineries that were established in the region, and keep a strong family tradition.  In recent years, the explosion in popularity and sales of Prosecco have meant that vineyard plantings in the area has increased dramatically, and a new designated area, called Prosecco, was established in 2010. My concern is that there is the danger of devaluation, in terms of the quality and image of Prosecco.

SO WHAT’S THE STORY BEHIND RUGGERI AND THE FAMILY BACKGROUND?

My Grandfather, Giustino, set up the company in 1950; it’s now run by my father Paolo, and my brother, Giustino and I are now both heavily involved in the business also.

Today, the winery is 100% Bisol owned; we still own the small vineyards that were originally established, but he have not bought more. Instead we have focussed on strengthening even further our relationships with over 100 growers in the DOCG Valdobbiadene and Cartizze areas, who supply us with high quality grapes.  Growers need to trust producers and vice versa.  We have been working with most of these growers for over half a century.

TELL ME A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND AND THAT OF YOUR FAMILY

We all have unusual backgrounds and training! My father was a doctor; I studied History of Art , and my brother Giustino has a PHD in Ancient Philosophy!

WHY DO YOU THINK PROSECCO HAS BECOME SO FASHIONABLE AND SUCCESSFUL?

There are several reasons. The obvious one is that people are drinking more sparkling wine these days, and no longer see it as just something for a special occasion.  Cava started the trend for affordable sparkling wine, and Prosecco is now the height of fashion.

HOW ARE THE VINES LOOKING SO FAR IN 2013?

So far, all is good, we have not had frosts or hail.  The flowering is happening.  What is interesting in the viticultural calendar is how the timing of the vintage has changed.  A decade or so ago, the vintage used to happen in October, and it’s gradually moved earlier and earlier. 

YOU HAVE A WIDE RANGE OF DIFFERENT PROSECCOS WITHIN THE PORTFOLIO – HOW DO THEY DIFFER FROM EACH OTHER?

It’s like any other wine region, there are many different styles, depending on the blend and the location.  We start off with our lighter, DOC wines, and are especially proud of Prosecco Argeo, which we blend very carefully, to get real character and liveliness in the wine.  There’s also a deliciously fruity Rosé di Pinot, which is perfect in the summer.

The Ruggeri Brut Quartese is really the hallmark of what we do – it’s a DOCG wine, and it has a very pure, clean, citrus and mineral quality, with delicate bubbles, and a gentle elegance.   For those who like a slightly off dry fizz, the Santo Stefano is a soft, semi-dry style, which goes very well with fruit and light desserts.

There are 2 fuller, complex styles of Prosecco, which truly demonstrate the style of Ruggeri – the Riserva Giustino DOCG 2011, which is a vintage Prosecco, produced from the very best vineyards and sites, with a lovely concentration of fruit; and one of my favourites, the Vecchie Viti Superiore, which is made from older vines.

DESERT ISLAND WINES APART FROM PROSECCO?

I’m very patriotic and would choose a Friuli Sauvignon for its freshness and vivacity, and a soft Pinot Noir from Trentino Alto Adige. 

DESERT ISLAND FOODS?

Definitely risotto!  I’m vegetarian, and also love Thai and oriental food – I’m fascinated by the Far East.

HOW DO YOU RELAX?

I travel a great deal, so when I can I like to relax at home, and not go too far… walking in our beautiful hills, reading, and with my art background, I like to visit museums and art galleries whenever I can.

Interview conducted by Angela Mount - find her on Twitter @angelatalkswine