Regional France _ a voyage of food and wine

By Angela Mount

This month it’s all about France at Great Western Wine – but not the most classic areas – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone  - these names speak for themselves;  it’s time to explore some of the other wine regions, which run from pretty far north in the country, to the shores of the Mediterranean. With the holiday season fast-approaching, and many wine-loving visitors heading to France, here’s a quick guide to the best wines and the typical food of each area.

Let’s start in the north – first up is the LOIRE VALLEY, an area of outstanding beauty, with similarly beautiful and majestic chateaux, which hark back to the days when the French kings and the court used to escape Paris to the countryside – the French equivalent of the Cotswolds, I suppose. Known as the ‘garden of France’, freezing cold in winter, and usually sublime in Summer, the wines from here are generally light, zesty, and bright, be they white, red or rose.  Starting at the mouth of the Loire river, near Nantes, there’s nothing better than the a platter of the freshest of seafood, succulency pan-fried prawns, or a steaming bowl of mussels, straight from the day’s catch with a chilled glass of crisp, lemony, tangy Muscadet, such as CHATEAU DU POYET, MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2013... for me, it has to be a dozen briny, glittering oysters to accompany that Muscadet… and then maybe another dozen.

Moving slightly further inland, river fish is a great speciality – perch in particular, trout, as well as pike and bream; the sauces here tend to be quite rich, the classic being Beurre blanc, a buttery sauce with vinegar and shallots. With these the dry, but slightly fuller wines of Saumur, Vouvray and Touraine work well , as does a glass of sparkling wine to cut through the richness of the creamy sauces – DOMAINE DE BRIZE, SAUMUR BRUT NV.  There’s also rillettes, a type of coarse pate made from duck, pork or salmon, which are great with lively , lightweight reds, such as GAMAY DE TOURAINE DOMAINE DE PIERRE 2013; and the tangy, pungent goats cheeses, such as Crottin de Chavignol are perfect with the Sauvignon blanc wines from the Western Loire, like Pierre Clement’s MENETOU SALON, DOMAINE DE CHATENOY 2012.  Round all of this off with a deliciously indulgent tarte tatin with a glass of sweet, luscious Vouvray, and your culinary experience is complete!

[caption id="attachment_1176" align="aligncenter" width="584"] Catenoy Winery[/caption]

Heading south east, through the majestic vineyards and panoramic landscape of Burgundy, and you’ll eventually get to BEAUJOLAIS, a region of green pastures,and rolling slopes , just south of the town of Macon. Bucolic, verdant, and lush are suitable words to describe the countryside here, with sleepy villages, such as FLEURIE and BROUILLY, nestled amongst the hills, to the west of the river Saone.   Here the Gamay grape is king, and the wines are bright, fruit-driven, joyful, and full of charm.  This is a meat region, with chickens running all over the area, and the big, white Charollais cattle grazing the pastureland. Typical dishes include the ubiquitous Coq au vin, poulet de Bresse in a cream sauce and lots and lots of saucisson, and cured meats, as well as game from the higher hills and forests.  All of these work well with the bright, lively styles of the region, such as LOUIS TETE FLEURIE 2012.  There’s also river-fish from the Saone and its tributaries, frequently cooked with red wine, which match up nicely to the white and Rose Beaujolais wines of the area.

Follow the motorway south from Lyons, through the steep, granite slopes of the majestic Northern Rhone, along the banks of the Rhone river, and you’ll hit  the town of Valence, which, to me, is where the weather changes, and is the gateway to the hot, balmy , lazy-hazy Mediterranean .  I always feel a weight lift from my shoulders as I drive over the hills of Valence, and the scents of olive trees, wild thyme and lavender, with that inexplicable dusty, sun-baked earth smell, hit my senses – and I smile, and breathe in the sunshine scents and the warmth.  There’s a host of wines and food to enjoy in the sun-baked villages of the Southern Rhone, but this journey heads straight to PROVENCE, and its sunny, feel-good food and wines.  The freshest of fish, and seafood, straight out of the Med; an abundance of colourful, ripe vegetables, and the warm, evocative aromas of wild herbs and olives combine to produce a very seductive style of alfresco cuisine – the classic is of course a perfectly seared piece of fresh tuna, set upon a bed of salade nicoise, and there’s no better way to enjoy the life here than with a  delicately- hued, salmon pink Cotes de Provence Rose, in its classic hourglass shaped bottle – COTES DE PROVENCE ROSE LA VIDAUBANAISE 2013.

Driving west from the Riviera, you’ll come across the beaches, villages and hills of the LANGUDOC-ROUSSILLON, one of the largest, most important wine producting areas in France.  The cuisine is not dissimilar to Provence or the southern Rhone, bursting with freshness, colour and vibrancy.  Enjoy a platter of the juicy, tender scallops or clams, overlooking the glittering Med, with a glass of the crisp, bright, and highly fashionable Picpoul de Pinet – DOMAINE LA ROQUEMOLIERE, PICPOUL DE PINET 2013; or venture slightly inland to discover the true rusticity and richness of Languedoc cuisine, which is as delicious in winter as it is in summer; here the gutsy, herb and spiced-charged reds of Corbieres, Roussillon and other little areas really come into their own alongside rich, rustic lamb stews, and vegetable dishes. CHATEAU DU VIEUX PARC, LA SELECTION, CORBIERES 2011 is one such delight. In the summer, lamb with olives, herbs and summer vegetables work with good honest dry Rose wines and the lighter, juicier styles of red from the region. CHATEAU DU DONJON MINERVOIS ROSE 2013, is my current favourite.

Our journey through regional France, for the purpose of this article, ends as we head off north west, to two classic holiday destinations, Dordogne and Gascony in SOUTH WEST FRANCE. One of the most magical things about French food and wine is its diversity and regionality, and it’s different here again.  Now we’re in the land of duck, duck and more duck – magret, confit, foie de canard, cassoulet – you name it, they make it…. Oh and goose as well.  It’s a very rich style of food here, home of foie gras, perigord truffles, and a plethora of walnut trees.  The wines of Bergerac, the Dordogne and Gascony are fabulous too, and offer The ripe, full-flavoured, Bordeaux-influenced reds of the region, such as  are just the trick for rich duck stews, and perfectly seared , glisteningly pink,duck breasts VIGNOBLE DUBARD CHATEAU LAULERIE MERLOT 2012; the typically regional ‘salades composees’, ( essentially an indulgently glorious medley of salad leaves, vegetables, bacon lardons, truffles, walnuts and egg, with the odd bit of duck breast of local cheese thrown in )call for something ripe, soft, bold, yet juicy, such as an all-time favourite of mine, the little-known grape BRAUCOL VIGNE LOURAC, VIN DE PAYS DU TARN 2012. And for fans of Foie gras and duck liver, there’s only one match – you need a sweet wine to match the richness of the dish so the local CHATEAU LAULERIE, COTES DE MONTRAVEL, MOELLEUX 2011 is the choice made in heaven – try it, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Enjoy your summer travels!