Discovering the joys of Portugal

Portugal has been one of the top holiday destinations for Brits for many years, but most head straight to the sunny coast and golf courses of the Algarve. Yet Portugal has so much more to offer – a sleeping giant in terms of wine,  and a relatively undiscovered gem in terms of holidaymakers. I was fortunate enough to spend 3 weeks in Portugal some years ago, as part of my wine training – this blog won’t be able to cover all regions, but here are some of my top recommendations should you decide to venture forth and explore this beautiful country, which produces some of the very best wines in the world, and which are still, in many cases, unsung heroes.

Getting to Portugal is easy, with daily flights to both Porto, in the north, and Lisbon, further south.  One of the problems of tourism in the past was the notoriously poor road network (as I discovered), but a huge EU investment in the last few years has led to faster highways and road networks from cities to more remote areas.

One such area is the renowned Douro Valley, the jewel in Portugal’s crown, now a Unesco World Heritage site, and home of some of the most prized and revered wines in the world.  It is without any doubt, one of the most spectacularly beautiful areas, let alone wine regions, in the world, imbued with an almost mystical sense of tranquility, and serene majesty.  The imperious Douro river winds, like a slithering, coiled snake, from the coastal town of Porto, up through the granitic hills and low mountains of the Douro Valley, which get ever steeper as it progresses up into the remoteness of the Upper Douro.

Vineyards, grown on steeply- shelved terraces, cling precariously to the dark, rock-hard sides of the hills, with the historic Port and wine estates (called quintas) nestled  in the hills, and by the shores of the river, each one a treasure trove of vinous delights, hiding some of the most prized wines in the world.

It used to take hours to cover the small, pot-holed roads up into the Douro, which meant that this diamond of a region stayed in quiet slumber, in its remoteness. The new road infrastructure has changed all that, and in addition, the tourism industry has been quick to spot the opportunities, with guest houses and luxury hotels, including one of Portugal’s finest, the 5 star Aquapura, a blissful and calming spa hotel, set in a 19^th century manor house, in a bend of the glittering, winding Douro river.

Alternatively, go the traditional route and stay at one of the many guest houses in the regions, where tradition goes hand in hand with modern comforts. Port houses now often have accommodation – what better way to wake up, than to fling open the windows, and look out onto the vineyards, in the absolute still and quiet, immediately imbuing a sense of peace for the day!  Quinta do Crasto is one of these – one of the oldest and most respected wineries in the regions, perching precariously on a hilltop between Regua and Pinhao, it boasts a much-lauded architect-designed swimming pool, wine tours, lunches and dinners. The wines are as spectacular as the view from the vineyards; whilst Port is the better-known tradition in this region, Quinta do Crasto is arguably the foremost wine producing estate.

The wines are perfectly matched to the cuisine of the region, which specialises in partridge, game and wild boar, as well as river fish.  Quinta do Crasto Douro Superior 2012 is spot on; this award-winning red is produced from a blend of traditional Port grapes, including Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, and is a rich, voluptuous delight, packed to the brim with super-ripe plum, fig and dark berry fruit, overlaid with hints of wild herbs and bitter chocolate. Of course a glass of Port, such as the broodingly rich Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage 2008 is a must, especially with the local cheeses.

Moving south, Lisbon is an internationally known city, which has a vibrant tourism industry, but not enough people venture a little further east to discover the rustic attraction, beautiful adegas (country houses) and superb wines of the region.  In this part of the country, the land is much flatter, and the soils are sun-baked; it’s a very important agricultural area, producing vast amounts of grain, fruit and vegetables. The pace is gentle, the mood peaceful, and it also happens to be producing some of the least-known, best- value, high quality wines in the country.

The Ribatejo region, situated close to Lisbon, is the second largest wine producing region in Portugal; a little further south east is the large, sun-drenched, fertile region of the Alentejo, where farms and wine estates slumber amidst the rolling hills; it’s an increasingly popular holiday destination – once again with private houses, villas and quaint farmhouse hotels to offer the visitor a myriad of options.

The wines are opulent, rich, and generous, balancing a rustic charm, with intensely ripe, voluptuous fruit, which work well with the bold, rich, produce and cuisine of the area – suckling pig, and lamb are local favourites.  Plansel Selecta Reserva 2012 is a great example of the wonderful wines of the area. The focus is on getting the best out of local grape varieties – full of dusky damsons and dried figs, mingled with hints of vanilla, a sprinkling of dark chocolate and a generous dollop of sweet spices. These styles of wine compete brilliantly in international wine competitions all over the world, yet much of the wine drinking public in the Uk has yet to discover their merits.

It’s not just red wines that Southern Portugal do so well – despite the heat, and searing sunshine, there are cooler patches, little oases, protected from the fiercest heat, and cooled by the mountain air of the nearby mountain ranges. There are delightful whites, once again, celebrating local grape varieties, rather than relying on the internationally famous ones. In addition, the region is producing some deliciously delicate rosé wines, beguiling in their charm, and delicacy, and surprising, given the general heat of the area.  Ribafreixo Pato Frio Cashmere Rosé 2013 is one such wine – a  whispering pale peachy pink in colour, and with haunting aromas of wild strawberries, it’s an absolutely delicious and dry Rosé, with freshness and zest.

Whichever regions of Portugal you choose to explore, you will be rewarded with some fabulous wines – it’s worth the time to venture into the hinterland and discover some of the wonderful vistas, wines and food that this country has to offer.

By Angela Mount