Chianti unravelled - What do the labels mean?

Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, Supertuscan, Tuscan Vino di Tavola…

What is the difference? What do they mean? Due to the intricacies of Italian labeling legislation, there is a confusing plethora of labels and wine information out on the shelves, which most people struggle to understand, even for those of us working in wine, due to their complicated nature.  Italian wine law makes it difficult to understand for anyone who just wants a bottle of decent or very good Chianti or Tuscan wine; here’s my more simple interpretation, to hopefully guide readers through the labyrinth of wine terminology and legal requirements.

On a very basic level, Chianti is a geographical region in Tuscany; Chianti Classico is a smaller region within Tuscany, which according to Italian wine law, is where the best Chianti wines are produced. Riserva is all about how long the wine is aged. Simple? No. it gets more complicated. Chianti can legally, only be produced from certain grape varieties – so if you have the most prized estate in the rolling hills of the Chianti Classico region, and you decide to plant and produce Shiraz, you can’t call it Chianti – it’s then a vino da tavola.

Even more confused? With no apologies for potential over-simplification, here’s Chianti explained in a straightforward terms:

Chianti - Chianti is a vast wine region in Tuscany, which encompasses the cities of Florence and Sienna, and covers 8 sub-regions. Italian wine laws are strict; Chianti can only be produced from a minimum 75% Sangiovese ( the hero grape of the region), 10% Canaiolo, and up to 20% of any other approved grape  variety, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.  Good, honest Chianti, such as the simple, but black cherry and wild herb-stashed Cecchi Chianti Foriero 2013,  are superb, everyday, food-friendly wines – just make sure you choose carefully.

Chianti Classico – Chianti Classico is in the heartland of Chianti, covering an area of around 100 square miles, and including the cities of Florence and Siena. It produces premium styles of Chianti, with more depth and complexity than straightforward Chianti. All the wines must have been aged for a minimum 7 months in oak. Try the Castello Di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2012, which shows elegance and delicacy, with violet-perfumed aromas, and black cherry,  warm spice flavours.

Chianti Rufina, Chianti Senesi - these are frequently seen wines on our shelves, and are two more of the 8 Chianti sub-regions. The wines frequently offer better value than their more expensive Chianti Classico neighbours, delivering lovely, bright red fruit and savoury flavours.

Chianti Superiore – just to confuse Chianti lovers further, this was an additional classification, which was introduced in 1996, and has stricter rules of production than straightforward Chianti. It can apply to all Chianti, except Chianti Classico, and if producers choose to use this name, they can’t put their sub region on the label – so Chianti Rufina, becomes simply Chianti Superiore – yes, it throws another curve ball into an already confusing hierarchy of definitions! Chianti Superiore has to be aged for a minimum of 9 months, three of which must be in the bottle.

Chianti Riserva, Chianti Classico Riserva – The word ‘Riserva’ is all about the age, and ageing, of the wine. Any wine labeled thus, must have been aged for a minimum of two years. A great example of this style is the lengthily named, but utterly glorious, Castello di Fonterutoli Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva 2011, the flagship wine of one of the oldest producers in the heart of Chianti Classico.  Supple, complex and beautifully elegant, this particular blend is named after their ancestor who was one of the first to define Chianti wine law.

Vino da Tavola di Toscana , Rosso di Toscana -  Chianti is just one part of Tuscany; the world renowned Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino are others, but they tend to command a higher spend than others.

There are also hundreds of miles of land and vineyards in the region, which produce top notch wines, which simply cannot be called Chianti because of the location, although the styles are frequently similar;  the Sangiovese grape still usually dominates, although you will also find it masquerading under the name of Morellino .  From simple, everyday Tuscan reds, to plush, polished, so called ‘Supertuscans’, oozing red carpet richness and opulence, there are wines to fit all budgets and preferences.

Some of my personal favourites are the quieter, elegant, silky, and more traditional styles, which often outshine Chianti, but are not quite so well recognized. If you want to explore these, look no further than one of my absolute favourites, Fattoria Dei Barbi Brusco Dei Barbi 2012; a bright, stylish, silky-smooth red, of medium body, brushed with scents and flavours of super-ripe figs, plums, black cherries, wild thyme, and a hint of mocha, all wrapping up together to make a stunning, juicy, food-friendly red, at a fraction of the price of Brunello.

Tuscany doesn’t just produce red wines – there are scores of friendly whites throughout the region; some of the best are made from the Vermentino grape and come from the gentle slopes, of the warm, but coastal region of Maremma. Try the Tenuta di Belguardo Vermentino di Maremma 2013, full of bright, peach and lemon peel scents and flavours.

It’s a confusing area – but the wines are well worth the trouble of exploring, and you really don’t need to pay a small fortune for a bottle of something pretty special.

By Angela Mount