Bubbly...with personality
Laura on 28 May 2015
Champagne is the world’s most famous sparkling wine, with Italy’s Prosecco hot on its heels. But France isn’t just about well known designer labels, designed for the well-heeled. There are plenty of alternatives to the famous Champagne houses which won’t break the bank – many using the same methods; all with their own unique styles.
Here are five refreshing wines that will open your mind to French fizz:
Chateau Rives-Blanques Blanquette de Limoux 2012
There are those that argue that the bottle fermentation method was invented by an Englishman, Christopher Merret. But whatever you believe, one thing is for sure; the winemakers of Limoux in the Languedoc-Roussillon were making fizzy wine before their counterparts in Champagne, 560 miles to the north. Here, the local Mauzac grape is blended with the more familiar Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to create an elegant, appley wine which has some toastiness from its time left on the lees in the bottle - a wine of freshness and character.
Domaine Didier Champalou Vouvray Brut NV
Back up north in the Loire Valley is Vouvray, a winemaking region around 230 miles from Épernay in Champagne. This is the homeland of Chenin Blanc, made in various guises from sweet to dry sparkling. Like Limoux, the fizz is created in the bottle, just like Champagne – but the finish is softer and more appley. The Didiers are modern winemakers, respecting tradition while delivering the fresh, honest flavours of baked apple and honey with crisp, yet creamy, fine bubbles.
Domaine de Brizé Saumur Brut Rosé NV
Domaine de Brizé also make a delicious fizz from Chenin Blanc, just down the road in Saumur. But this one is a pink, made with Cabernet Franc and local grapes Grolleau and Beaujolais’ Gamay. The nose is alive with redcurrants and summer fruits, leading to a vibrant palate of crunchy red apple, cranberry and blackberry. Priced like a Prosecco or Cava, this is a fun, fruity bubbly that’s ideal for spring and summer BBQs and picnics.
Champagne Premier Cru, Blanc de Noirs, Gonet-Medeville NV
If it’s got to be Champagne – and sometimes nothing else will do – then why not pick a grower-producer who creates distinctive artisan wines. Made with only red grapes, this clear, bright white sparkler is ripe and bold with rich, red fruit flavours and hints of brioche and hazelnut. The family-run business is owned by Julie Médeville, renowned winemaker at Château Gilette, a famous Sauternes property, while husband Xavier Gonet is a winemaker from an old family of Champagne vignerons from Le Mesnil sur Oger – a pretty impressive CV.
Champagne J-M Gobillard, Brut Grande Réserve Premier Cru NV
To quote co-owner and winemaker, Thierry Gobillard: “my house is ten metres away from Dom Pérignon’s grave” - you don’t get much more Champenois than that! A Premier Cru Grower Champagne at an unbelievable price, with a scrumptious nose of baked Bramley apples, spiced with a hint of star anise. The flavours of greengage, honey and fresh herbs are layered over a creamy palate balanced by minerality and lime citrus acidity: A GWW customer favourite that consistently out plays the big boys.
By Chris Penwarden